Illuminating Dunhuang: special exhibition and international academic symposium on Dunhuang art research and design achievements from Tsinghua University in Paris

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Illuminating Dunhuang: special exhibition and international academic symposium on Dunhuang art research and design achievements from Tsinghua University in Paris

Professor Veronika Kapsali, Dean of LCF's School of Design and Technology, Claudine Rousseau, Bo Wu.

Written byLondon College of Fashion
Published date 20 October 2024

Last month the "Illuminating Dunhuang" exhibition and international academic symposium took place in Paris. London College of Fashion, UAL (LCF) delegates attended the event which was jointly hosted by the Paris China Cultural Center and the Tsinghua University Academy of Arts and Design, with the Department of Textile and Fashion Design.

The event was supported by the Beijing Fashion Designers Association and the Dunhuang Costume Culture Research and Innovation Design Center, as well as co-organisers including the Tsinghua-Hailan Research Center for Traditional Chinese Costumes and Colors, Beijing Yihang Yixian Cultural Communication Co., Ltd., and Youka (Beijing) Technology Co., Ltd.

As a cradle of art and design education in China, Tsinghua University Academy of Arts and Design is dedicated to the research and inheritance of art design. In 1935, the father of the Academy's founding director, Chang Shuhong—known as the "Guardian of Dunhuang"—discovered the "Dunhuang Caves Catalogue" at a second-hand book stall by the Seine, leading him to return to China to protect and study the Dunhuang caves, ultimately founding the Dunhuang Research Institute. Chang Shuhong later transformed Dunhuang art into design inspiration, integrating it into significant projects such as the Great Hall of the People and the National Cultural Palace, as well as national gifts like the Peace Dove silk scarf, continuously contributing to the dissemination of Dunhuang's artistic charm.

woman holding a brightly coloured patterned plate — **Design by Yuanfeng Liu**

On the day of the opening ceremony, guests from China and France gathered in large numbers. The Chinese representatives included Ma Sai, Dean of Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts; Li Yingjun, Director of the Department of Textile and Apparel Art Design; Wu Bo, Deputy Director; Li Wei, Professor; Liu Hongge, Director of the Paris China Cultural Center; and Fang Ying, President of the Beijing Fashion Designers Association.

Representatives from the UK included Claudine Rousseau, Dean of LCF's School of Design and Technology, Veronika Kapsali, Professor and Head of the Active Materials Research Lab; and Senior Lecturer Lin Mingjing. French representatives included Jean D. Lahirle, CEO of Delvaux Asia Pacific; Elisabetta Berla, Co-founder of Between Research; Kuki Devertes, Founder of TOTEM&CROSSMODE; and St茅phanie Bui, recipient of the Heritage Award for Short Documentaries in Haute Couture. Additionally, faculty, students, and alumni from Tsinghua University, along with various cultural figures from China and France, attended to witness this artistic event.

symposium delegates with one person talking into a microphone — **Dean of the School of Design and Technology at LCF, Claudine Rousseau.**

The exhibition showcased research and creative works by faculty, students, and alumni of Tsinghua University Academy of Arts and Design, centered on Dunhuang art. It aims to promote outstanding traditional Chinese culture, inherit the academic legacy, and contribute to cultural confidence and the enhancement of Sino-French friendship.

It also featured a wealth of artefacts, including items such as wall painting replicas, pattern collections, fashion illustrations, silk scarves, garments, fibers, cloisonn茅, and academic papers. Notable works also included Mr. Pang Xunqin’s decorative painting "Tang Lady with Red Belt Dance" inspired by Dunhuang flying apsaras, Mr. Lei Guiyuan’s batik work "Deer King" based on Cave 257, Chang Shuhong’s replica of "The Sutra of Infinite Life from Cave 72" and the design of the national gift Peace Dove silk scarf, as well as various fashion pieces and illustrations to reflect the spirit of traditional culture integrated with modern design concepts.

The "Illuminating Dunhuang" symposium was held on the third floor of the modern building at the Paris China Cultural Center. The theme of this international academic symposium was "Inheritance, Innovation, Dissemination," focusing on "The Historical Heritage and Modern Interpretation of Dunhuang Art" and "The International Dissemination and Exchange of Dunhuang Culture."

The forum was chaired by Li Yingjun, Director of the Department of Textile and Apparel Art Design. Speakers included Ma Sai, Dean, Li Wei, Professor Wu Bo, Deputy Director, Claudine Rousseau, Veronika Kapsali, Lin Mingjing, Jean D. Lahirle, Elisabetta Berla, Kuki Devertes, and St茅phanie Bui.

delegates in a group outside symposium — **Delegates including: Veronika Kapsali, Elisabetta Beria, Claudine Rousseau, Remy Aron, Ira de Puiff, Ying Fang, Wei Li, Hong Ge Liu, Sai Ma, Yingju Li, Bo Wu, Mingjing Lin.**

During the symposium, speakers actively participated in discussions, creating a vibrant atmosphere. This event was not only a celebration of Dunhuang culture, art, and scholarship but also a milestone in Sino-French cultural exchange.

As a representative of LCF, Claudine Rousseau proposed that design should regard innovation as a core concept, encouraging students to explore design concepts within a multicultural background. She pointed out an important topic for future fashion communication and exchange—the self-cultural identity in the context of cultural integration. Finally, she expressed her hope to have more exchanges and cooperation with the Academy of Arts & Design at Tsinghua University, jointly exploring the path of integrating fashion and technology.

Veronika Kapsali, the Director of the Active Materials Lab at LCF, stated that the key issue in fashion design is how to perfectly combine traditional craftsmanship with modern fabrics. This places higher demands on designers, requiring them to continuously explore and experiment throughout the creative process. The use of emerging materials will become a core focus in design, propelling the fashion industry towards a more environmentally friendly and sustainable future.

Senior Lecturer and alumna of LCF, Mingjing Lin, expressed her pride in Dunhuang culture and Chinese elements. She shared her experience of pursuing advanced studies in London after graduating from the Academy of Arts & Design at Tsinghua University. She hopes that universities can guide students in their teaching to trace back to their tradition and inherit the profound cultural heritage through innovative approaches.

All photos by Shouzhuang Lin.

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